Hit or Miss
Jumping on a hot trend at just the right time can be a great way to launch a business. But how can you tell if a trend has enough staying power to stake your startup on it?
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http://entrepreneur.com/startingabusiness/businessideas/evaluatingyouridea/article70860.html
Three years ago, Rebecca Cutler and Jennifer Krane saw big
changes happening in the athletic wear and maternity industries.
Women were wearing athletic clothes for going out, not just working
out. Obstetricians were encouraging pregnant women to keep up a
modified exercise regimen to stay fit, whether it be yoga, walking
or another favorite sport. Designers were creating fashionable
clothing lines for pregnant women, and celebrities were making
pregnancy look hip, beautiful, fashionable, even athletic. Cutler
and Krane did some research and learned that 4 million babies are
born every year in the United States, and American women spend an
estimated $1.2 billion annually on maternity wear.
There was a pregnant pause, however, when they compared what
they saw to what was on the racks at sporting and maternity
stores-especially when it came to tennis, a sport Cutler and Krane
both love. "[Pregnant women] were buying extra-large
nonmaternity tennis skirts-pulling them on, feeling awful and not
really fitting into them," says Cutler, a mother of two. They
thought a box set of fashionable maternity athletic clothes that
included a mix-and-match reversible tennis skirt, a few V-neck
shirts, and shorts that could transition from the tennis court to a
night on the town just might sell.
Fast forward to 2004: Cutler, 36, and Krane, 38, are co-founders
of Raising a Racquet, a 2-year-old Darien, Connecticut,
company that makes athletic wear for pregnant women. Their
multipiece box sets retail from $108 to $158 and are sold at stores
like A Pea in the Pod, Bloomingdale's, Copeland Sports, Mimi
Maternity and Pickles & Ice Cream. The company has expanded
into three clothing lines for tennis, golf and yoga. Gross sales in
the first year were $250,000 and are projected to reach close to $1
million in 2004.
Jumping on trends early helped Cutler and Krane develop a loyal
customer base, especially among stores with limited buying
resources. "[They might] pick up fewer pieces of Nike running
pants and hold that money back for the Raising a Racquet yoga
kit," Cutler says. It's also making the company a
contender. Adidas, Nike and Reebok have come out with maternity
lines since Cutler and Krane started the company, and Raising a
Racquet has been mentioned in stories alongside these industry
behemoths. "That was thrilling," Krane says. "I
think we hit [the trend] just right."
Early trend spotting can set up young companies for long-term
success. But how can entrepreneurs discern whether what they're
seeing is a long-lasting trend or a fad that will die out in six
months? Mistaking the two can put entrepreneurs out of business
faster than they can say "fad."
So what is the difference between a trend and a fad? Ask 30
people, and you'll probably get 30 different, yet similar,
answers. A fad is a statement, a one-hit wonder, something
eye-catching that comes and then goes just as quickly. (Think Pet
Rock.) A trend has roots and staying power; it strikes a deeper
chord and is connected to a larger change in society. The real
debate starts when you ask people whether a popular product or
service is a fad or a trend. Take the Atkins diet, for example.
Some experts say it's a trend because it's become part of a
lifestyle and ties into larger trends like the quest for health.
Others argue Atkins is a fad that's riding a larger, long-term
trend: a fundamental shift in consumer behavior.
A trend is "nothing more than a manifestation of an
individual's values," says Vickie Abrahamson, co-founder
of Minneapolis trend analysis firm Iconoculture,
who points to the late 1990s craze for clear products such as clear
beer, clear soap and even clear Pepsi as a fad that didn't
connect with consumers. Even Saturday Night Live parodied
the fad in a humorous commercial for clear gravy. Clear products
didn't succeed because the inventors didn't factor into the
design process the value people put on their senses of sight and
smell. In the end, clear beer just couldn't tap into the
importance consumers place on the total beer experience, and the
genre went flat. As Abrahamson puts it: "[Clear beer] was fun
until people actually tasted it."
A trend spans more than one industry and touches more than one
market and generation, says Louis Patler, chairman of consulting
and market research firm Near Bridge Inc. in Mill Valley, California,
and author of TrendSmart: The Power of Knowing What's
Coming...and...What's Here to Stay. "Trends do not
exist in isolation," Patler says. "The entrepreneur who
wins is the one who sees how three or four of them dovetail
together." Consider the iPod, which draws on multiple trends,
ranging from our desire for more mobility, instant gratification
and customization to our craving for all things fashionable.
It's too late to catch a trend if you're reading about
it or seeing it at a trade show, says James Chung, president of
Reach
Advisors, a marketing strategy firm in Belmont, Massachusetts.
Start following lead indicators in similar industries for
what's bubbling up. "You have an advantage if you can
train yourself to look at adjacent industries," Chung says,
noting it wasn't until recently the ski industry realized its
trends follow those happening in surfing and skateboarding.
"That's why California ski resorts are a lot more ahead of
the trends than others," he says. "They've had a
chance to view the adjacent industries driving the trends within
theirs."
And don't forget your potential customer. Cutler and Krane
conducted focus groups early and built momentum based on what they
learned. "Keeping the momentum going after you spot a trend is
important," says Cutler, "because, if it's something
with staying power, chances are good there's someone else out
there who's thinking about it."
Distinguishing between trends and fads requires quantitative and
qualitative analysis with a bit of gut instinct thrown in for good
measure. Janet Lee, 31, is founder of Petote, a 3-year-old
Chicago company that makes upscale pet carriers that look more like
fashionable purses. Company sales have increased from $120,000 in
2002 to projections of more than $1 million in 2004. Petote's
five designs-which retail from $100 to $600-are sold at more than
400 stores in the United States, including Hallmark, Henri Bendel,
Marshall Field's and Petco. Lee also touts a roster of
celebrity clients like Halle Berry, Jewel, Jessica Simpson and
Justin Timberlake.
But back in 2000, Lee-whose family owns a carrying-case
manufacturing business-was itching to create her own product line.
An animal lover, she spent a few months researching the pet-carrier
industry, visiting pet stores and Web sites for pet- and
travel-related gear to figure out what was on the market. She also
found statistics showing the market for small pets was growing
fast.
Lee had a gut instinct that there was a need for a stylish,
zippered pet carrier with a rigid, plastic lining inside to protect
a small pet. Her hunch was backed up by research. "There was
just a very plain, soft-sided bag that you could put your pet
in," Lee says. "I decided it would be great to develop a
pet carrier that's not only cute and functional, but [that]
people could use for a very long time."
She created some prototype bags and made sales calls to 20 pet
stores. Lee feels she hit the pet trend at the right time: Since
she started the company, Kate Spade has come out with a pet-carrier
line, and shoemaker Donald J. Pliner is marketing its own upscale
line of dog collars and leashes. The 25 employees at Petote are
staying a step ahead of the competition by extending the
company's product line into matching duffle and tote bags for
people and their pets' accessories. The company is also
developing a line of dog clothes and recently moved into a
30,000-square-foot facility. "Having a little dog and carrying
it around in a pet tote is the trendiest thing now," Lee says.
Her advice: Research every channel out there. That includes vetting
competitors as well as big and very small retail stores. "Know
everything about the product you're making," she says,
"what's out there, what's not available and what fits
into your creation."
Every trend has a matching countertrend, a phenomenon Carey
Earle, partner in New York City marketing and design firm Harvest
Communications LLC, refers to as "cultural
schizophrenia." Countertrends are everywhere. Just look at the
growing obsession with organic food and yoga at the same time that
obesity is a growing crisis. Technology is becoming more pervasive,
while people are spending more money to go where they can't be
reached by BlackBerry. Flashy and bombastic Christina Aguilera
shares the top of the pop charts with understated and soothing
Norah Jones.
"Countertrending" is used all the time in the fashion
industry. Designers Betsey Johnson and Marc Jacobs are hot because
they always seem to find the countertrend that makes their clothes
different and edgy. "You need to think of the countertrend
because, a lot of times, the big guy is already riding the
trend," Earle says. There's a lot of room for
entrepreneurs who can use countertrending in new and clever
ways-for example, the entrepreneur who can take advantage of
countertrends to lure the coffee lover who is turned off by
Starbucks. Get out of the office, and visit the fringe where new
things are happening. Ask the people there what they're craving
in products and services, and put away that inner cynic. "Lock
him in the supply closet, and let the ideas come out," Earle
says.
Some trends and countertrends have a short shelf life, though,
so check clearance racks for hints about what's not working or
selling anymore. In a clothing store, for instance, "You can
stand 40 feet away from the clearance rack and see a whole color
palette that's on sale because no one's buying it,"
Patler says. Use store salespeople as a part of early focus groups.
Why do they think the items on the clearance rack still aren't
selling even on markdown? What feedback do they get from customers?
Their answers, trendy insights not found in surveys, will offer a
closer look at what's not working. "Ideas created in the
boardroom are usually the worst ones," Earle says.
Telling the difference between a fad and a trend is a constant
balancing act for entrepreneurs navigating fad-driven industries.
"Companies in our industry can bring in trendy services that
have no merit," says Bruce Schoenberg, 50, co-founder of
Oasis Day
Spa, which has New York City locations on Park Avenue, in Union
Square, and in the JetBlue Airways terminal at John F. Kennedy
International Airport. He points to the recent craze for pure
oxygen and caviar-enriched facials, which were hailed as trends but
proved to be nothing more than fads.
So how do Schoenberg and wife/co-founder, Marti, 41, ferret out
the trends from the fads? For starters, they go to at least one to
two networking events every week populated by hip twentysomethings,
and they survey customers once a month to stay on top of emerging
services and products. "Spa-to-go" services-where the
pedicurist or the massage therapist comes to the customer-is a
trend they feel holds a lot of potential. But they'll dip their
toes in slowly to make sure it's not a fad. "Before we
roll out any new product or service, we use it for several weeks
until we see it works. If it's something we feel has legs, we
do it," Bruce says. "We want to see a proven value
first." The strategy is working beautifully: Annual sales are
now more than $6 million.
Chris Penttila is Entrepreneur's "Staff
Smarts" columnist.
Want to keep up with the
latest trends, but not sure where to start? These 12 online
resources will help you stay in the know.
- DailyCandy is a free daily e-mail service spilling
the beans on fashion, food and all things hip.
- Trendcentral is a free daily e-mail newsletter
covering lifestyle, technology, style and entertainment,
particularly for Gens Y and X.
- Daypop offers a Top 40 list of the hottest blog
topics including links, archives and performance indicators from
previous updates.
- BlogPulse allows visitors to search, analyze,
chart blog content and includes ready-to-go trend analysis such as
"yoga vs. Pilates."
- Google Zeitgeist charts the most popular searched
items on Google on a monthly basis, plus offers access to archived
Zeitgeist lists.
- Yahoo! Buzz
Index is a daily ranking of searched terms through Yahoo!
based on total searches and percentage of change from the previous
day. A free weekly e-mail buzz report is also available.
- Small Business Trends is a business trend-tracking
blog for entrepreneurs and small and mid-sized businesses
that's updated even on the weekends.
- Emerging Trend Advisor by Find/SVP is a
monthly e-mail newsletter written by industry experts covering
business trends. The newsletter is free to all Find/SVP clients,
but non-clients can sign up for the latest newsletter online.
- PollingReport.com is an independent, non-partisan
Web site revealing American trends through regularly updated polls.
PollingReport.com also offers a bimonthly subscription-based
newsletter.
- Trendwatching.com offers a free monthly e-mail
newsletter covering consumer trends and related business ideas. The
Web site also offers a preview of the current newsletter in case of
commitment reservations.
- Endgadget and Gizmodo offer up the daily doses of the
latest gadgetry and gear. If you want to know what's going on
in the consumer tech world, these are your blogs.-Steve
Cooper
Trump's Trend-Spotting Tips
No one knows how to ride the crest of a trend wave better than
real estate tycoon Donald Trump. Tsunami is more like it: Trump
capitalized on the reality-TV trend by becoming the star of
NBC's The Apprentice, a solid-gold branding opportunity he has
committed to for two more years.
Trump has built his business on trends, but he knows how to cash
in on fads, too-at press time, he had moved to trademark his
signature catchphrase "You're fired," which will be
emblazoned on a line of T-shirts. He shares his advice for
entrepreneurs eager to capitalize on the next big thing:
- Do your research for a big-money payoff. Read and study
magazines in great detail, and pay attention to pop culture for
signs of the next product craze or innovation in product
development. "If you are able to hit a trend or a fad
early," says Trump, "you'll make much more money than
you would from a more normal business."
- Try a variation on an already viable trend. "Always
extend a trend," he says, describing how, for example, the
principles of the Atkins diet may be used to help children-or even
pets-shed unwanted pounds.
- Consider a contrarian approach. "One of the things
I do, and often successfully, is to go opposite the trend,"
Trump says. If the hottest buildings in Manhattan are smaller
units-studios and one- or two-bedrooms-he'll start building
very large ones. "By the time you plan the building and get it
built, which is a number of years, there'll end up being a glut
of small apartments and not enough big ones."
- Fine-tune production. Since no one can predict how long
a trend or fad will last, make sure, if you're a manufacturer,
that you aren't stuck with overages. "You can't create
or build so much product that, if the trend or the fad doesn't
last, you're going to be stuck with it," Trump says. You
need flexibility and the ability to stop quickly when it ends.
- Jump in before anyone else. Being too cautious will cost
you dearly. "If it's already on the shelf," says
Trump, "you can, generally speaking, forget the
idea."
- Go with your gut. "You're going to do well if
you're lucky to be blessed with gut instinct," Trump says,
adding not to worry about the naysayers who don't understand
your vision built on an idea that hasn't yet become a household
name. "You're the one taking the risk, they're not.
And by the way, when it turns out to be good, family and friends
will be right behind you."
Coeli Carr is a freelance business and entertainment writer
in New York City.
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