Schizophrenic Nation They're healthy; they're indulgent. They're cynical; they're hopeful. They're having fun; they're working like maniacs. Are today's consumers nuts--or just trying to have it all?

At gourmet takeout haven Urban Epicuria, patrons scarf down awhopping 200 pounds of grilled chicken breasts each week.That's no surprise in fitness-obsessed West Hollywood,California. But Wayne Davis, co-owner of Urban Epicuria along withAlan and Gail Baral, lets us in on a dirty little secret: The beeftenderloin is also a hot seller. And the chocolate cake--customerscan't get enough. "When we were putting this businesstogether, our investors were skeptical [about us selling richpastries and other indulgences]," says Davis. "But I toldthem, `You watch.' People talk about eating healthy--but behindclosed doors, it's another story."

Sometimes it's another story in public, too. Allentown,Pennsylvania, restaurateur Iris Konia packs in the local bonvivants at her Federal Grill & Cigar Bar. According toKonia, public indulgence in cigars, premium martinis and aged Angussteaks is not a sign of nutritional Armageddon. "Times aregood, and people are feeling expansive," says Konia. "Ithink it's a reaction to not [indulging] for so long. Peopleare having fun; that's what we're seeing."

Yet, it's not the kind of orgiastic free-for-all we saw inthe 1980s. Barbara Caplan, a partner at consumer research firmYankelovich Partners, puts it this way: "In the '80s,there was no shame; in the '90s, it's no apologies."Indeed, today's consumers are curious and conflictedcharacters--attracted by luxury but driven by value, knowledgeableabout fitness but susceptible to caloric sins. This is the culturethat spawned Martha (Stewart) by Mail, a service that packages allthe pillowy comforts of gracious living in a no-commitment,hassle-free format.